Your skin naturally produces an oil known as sebum, which helps keep your skin hydrated. Oily skin occurs when the sebaceous glands produce too much sebum, leading to shiny skin and enlarged pores.
Oily skin is very common, especially during puberty, and is the main cause of acne (pimples). Around 85% of people between the ages of 15 and 25 are prone to acne. Both oily skin and acne can affect the appearance of your skin and may also impact your self-image.
The key to managing oily skin is restoring a balanced sebum level.
Characteristics of Oily Skin
Oily skin primarily affects the face, scalp, and upper body, often focusing on the “T-zone,” which includes the forehead, eyebrows, nose, and chin. Common symptoms of oily skin include:
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Waxy or shiny skin with an “oily” appearance.
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Enlarged pores, which are small openings that release oil and sweat from the skin.
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Acne, including red bumps (papules), white or yellow bumps (pustules), nodules (under-the-skin lumps), and cysts (pimples).
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Closed comedones (whiteheads).
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Open comedones (blackheads).
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Seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff), which causes itchy skin with white or yellow flakes (may appear lighter or darker on brown or black skin).
Some people have “combination” skin, where one part of the face is oily and another is dry. People with combination skin typically have an oily T-zone and dry, flaky cheeks or other facial areas.
Causes of Oily Skin
Oily skin occurs when sebaceous glands (located at the base of hair follicles) produce sebum using substances from dead skin cells. This oil is secreted into the skin’s lipid layer (stratum corneum). When sebum production becomes excessive and disrupts this lipid layer, oily skin occurs.
Several factors can lead to or exacerbate oily skin, such as climate, hormonal changes, genetics, and certain hygiene practices. A combination of these factors can cause oily skin problems.
Genetics
There’s substantial evidence suggesting that genetics play an important role in oily skin and acne. A large study involving identical and fraternal twins found that genes determine nearly half of the variation in sebum production. While genetics may not be the only factor, it clearly plays a significant role.
Androgens
High levels of androgens (a class of sex hormones, including testosterone) stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce excessive sebum. This can lead to oily skin and acne, especially in teenagers or men undergoing testosterone replacement therapy.
Since estrogen (a hormone that regulates the female reproductive system) decreases sebum production, males (assigned at birth) are more likely to have oily skin than females (assigned at birth).
Growth Hormones
Growth hormones like insulin and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) are produced by the pituitary gland, a part of the endocrine system. They regulate height, bone length, and muscle development. High levels of these hormones stimulate sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. Since teenagers are more active during puberty, they’re more prone to oily skin and acne.
High Glycemic Diet
Studies suggest that high-glycemic diets, rich in carbohydrates and simple sugars, are associated with sebum production. This is possibly due to their impact on hormones like insulin and IGF-1. High-glycemic foods include white bread, white rice, many snacks, potatoes, and sugar.
Lack of Sleep
There’s a reason people call it “beauty sleep.” Lack of sleep not only leads to bags under the eyes but also stimulates oil production. A study conducted on oily and non-oily skin adults in Korea showed that after only four hours of sleep, sebum levels continued to decline.
Skincare Practices
Certain hygiene habits and practices can worsen oily skin. Soaps, lotions, and other products that contain alcohol or oil can irritate the skin and disrupt the stratum corneum. While they may temporarily remove oil, they can trigger increased production afterward.
Humidity
When pores are exposed to hot or humid air, they release sweat, which triggers increased sebum production. Research has shown that humid air can trigger acne and oily skin, especially in hot weather. Humidity is also associated with eczema flare-ups, which can cause dry, flaky, and itchy skin.
Impacts and Complications
Oily skin can lead to more frequent acne outbreaks, as excess oil attracts dirt and bacteria, potentially clogging pores and causing acne. It can also make makeup application uneven or more difficult, and makeup may not last as long.
Oily skin may affect self-esteem, leading to feelings of isolation or social withdrawal. Studies show that those with oily skin or acne have higher rates of anxiety and depression and are more prone to stress.
How to Care for Oily Skin
Establishing a regular skincare routine can help control oily skin, remove excess oil, and prevent acne. Here are some steps that may help:
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Wash your face regularly: Wash your face twice a day—morning, before bed, and after exercise or physical activity. Be gentle with your skin.
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Use a gentle soap: Avoid soaps that contain alcohol or oil, as they can irritate the skin and increase sebum production. A mild, foaming facial cleanser is your best option.
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Moisturize: When your skin becomes too dry, your sebaceous glands will become more active, producing even more oil. Use a gentle, oil-free moisturizer.
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Exfoliate: For oily skin, deep-cleansing exfoliators (like glycolic acid) can remove dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores. Exfoliate once or twice a week.
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Toner: Use toner to hydrate your skin and tighten pores.
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Remove makeup: Always remove all makeup before bedtime.
Things to Keep in Mind
When it comes to caring for oily skin, building good habits is key. The overall goal is to keep your skin neither too oily nor too dry.
What to Do for Oily Skin:
Here are tips for managing oily skin:
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Check the ingredients: Ensure your soap, lotions, or other products are labeled “oil-free,” “non-comedogenic,” and “alcohol-free.”
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Use blotting paper: Blot away excess oil with blotting paper, but be gentle to avoid irritating the skin.
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Block UV rays: Protect your skin from sun exposure. Use sunscreen or wear a hat to reduce exposure.
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Use safe makeup: If you wear makeup, opt for oil-free or water-based products, and choose “matte” foundations, concealers, and powders.
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Change your brushes: Use brushes or sponges instead of fingers to apply makeup and replace them regularly to avoid bacteria buildup.
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Seek help: If you’re struggling with oily skin, consult your healthcare provider or a dermatologist for professional care.
What to Avoid for Oily Skin:
Common mistakes people make when caring for oily skin include irritating the skin, drying it out, disrupting the skin barrier, and stimulating excess sebum production. Here’s what you should avoid:
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Avoid harsh soaps: Never use soaps or lotions that contain oil or alcohol, and be gentle when washing your face.
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Don’t sleep with makeup on: Sleeping with makeup on disrupts the skin barrier and may lead to more oiliness or other skin issues.
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Don’t touch your face: Dirt and bacteria from your fingers can get into your pores and cause acne. Limit touching your face, and avoid picking or squeezing pimples.
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Don’t over-cleanse: Stick to your facial cleansing routine, but avoid cleansing too often, as this can strip the skin’s natural barrier and lead to more oil production.